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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.